I am a surfer of the 60s. I highly respect the courage and skills of the surfers presented in this movie. I do agree that this film could be improved; and so I offer a constructive critique as follows: The audience needs to feel the fear and anguish of failure a large percentage of the time in order to feel victory. These surfer chaps are so professional, so skilled as presented that we rarely feel defeat. Perhaps this film could have presented some intermediate surfers trying and failing at lesser waves. Then the movie could build to the "pros" whom have paid their dues. These pros are smiling and laughing much of the time and so they seem more than fearless, they are masters whom are no longer taking huge risks. From my own experience, I respect anyone who can surf such huge and dangerous waves. I can remember what it feels like just to stand before waves 1/2 the size depicted in this movie. But other viewers don't have this personal experience of being in awe. Adding on 3D and camera headgear is a nice touch; adding polished, well framed interviews is, ah...professional, slick, chrome plating. But "chrome plating" isn't speed, fear, pain, suffering. We need to see more suffering, a larger percentage of suffering vs. success. Success after success after success is boring. We need the cars to break down; get flat tires. We need to see more exhausted surfers; we need to see blood on the forehead, arguments, conflicts with police...well...we need to see more drama. Yes, I am aware that there already are a few scenes that talk about pain and risk. But where is the real worry in their eyes? Most of the time these pros are laughing and showing how really relaxed they are before they undertake surfing huge waves. And that relaxes us, the audience, too. Nothing to fear here. It's a beautiful waves, a beautiful day, day after day. Beauty can become boring, even if you live in paradise.
There is a small attempt to define a surfer as a person who has a special interest in nature, risk taking. He may be a person who is an endless teenager. But is this character development to say these things? It's a meek attempt to be sure. As a result, we do not end up "close" to these surfers. We see a little of their history and still we do not find special insights here. They have a "need for speed" the movie attempts to convey.
I remember "Endless Summer" from the 60s. At that time, I felt stimulated by this movie to "take off" and to follow the sun. This movie as I recall featured music by Dick Dale or a replica musical group. The music, the promise of an "Endless Summer" lead to a feeling that surfing was a kind of romantic sea challenge that one would tell to one's grandchildren. In this movie, the surfers have children, and they have gray hair. The children here are not in awe of their parents, surfing is an everyday affair for them. So, while it is a fine accomplishment for a 50 year old man to surf huge waves, we are missing out on the romance of the ocean.
So, I will say this: I think the music could be more "Spanish" or harken to foreign lands through presentations of dancers, music, parties with foreigners, etc. Doing this will add romance and give the audience a new (foreign) travel experience. As the movie is, we are looking at a polished movie with little failure evident. Watching a golf movie with all "holes in one" can be repetitive, boring. We need to see defeat. When we watch baseball, football, soccer, complete success rarely happens during the game. Yet, the audience is glued to every little defeat and partial success.
Making good movies requires more than a template with polished interviews and cuts to action scenes. The writers, producers of movies of this kind need to go to the "next level" to provide the audience with a channel to feel every heart beat. Using a special action camera does add some small percentage of this personal fear experience. But we need much more. We need to see personal defeat.
I recommend this movie as light entertainment which is worth the fee to go in especially if you have been a surfer. But for others, I feel you will be bored in the center of the movie by the repetition of perfect waves.
Sometimes too much perfection can be boring.
There is a small attempt to define a surfer as a person who has a special interest in nature, risk taking. He may be a person who is an endless teenager. But is this character development to say these things? It's a meek attempt to be sure. As a result, we do not end up "close" to these surfers. We see a little of their history and still we do not find special insights here. They have a "need for speed" the movie attempts to convey.
I remember "Endless Summer" from the 60s. At that time, I felt stimulated by this movie to "take off" and to follow the sun. This movie as I recall featured music by Dick Dale or a replica musical group. The music, the promise of an "Endless Summer" lead to a feeling that surfing was a kind of romantic sea challenge that one would tell to one's grandchildren. In this movie, the surfers have children, and they have gray hair. The children here are not in awe of their parents, surfing is an everyday affair for them. So, while it is a fine accomplishment for a 50 year old man to surf huge waves, we are missing out on the romance of the ocean.
So, I will say this: I think the music could be more "Spanish" or harken to foreign lands through presentations of dancers, music, parties with foreigners, etc. Doing this will add romance and give the audience a new (foreign) travel experience. As the movie is, we are looking at a polished movie with little failure evident. Watching a golf movie with all "holes in one" can be repetitive, boring. We need to see defeat. When we watch baseball, football, soccer, complete success rarely happens during the game. Yet, the audience is glued to every little defeat and partial success.
Making good movies requires more than a template with polished interviews and cuts to action scenes. The writers, producers of movies of this kind need to go to the "next level" to provide the audience with a channel to feel every heart beat. Using a special action camera does add some small percentage of this personal fear experience. But we need much more. We need to see personal defeat.
I recommend this movie as light entertainment which is worth the fee to go in especially if you have been a surfer. But for others, I feel you will be bored in the center of the movie by the repetition of perfect waves.
Sometimes too much perfection can be boring.