10/10
Like going back to my childhood...
12 March 2014
I watched this wonderful film for the first time since first seeing it in 1966 in a tiny theater, hosted by Bruce Brown himself, who I consider the "Godfather" of the entire surf film genre. I don't know how many kids like me he turned on to the wonderful sport of surfing, but I know it was a lot. I was saddened to her that the co-star Mike Hynson had fallen on hard times in the ensuing years, but he's "back from the dead" and making his own custom surfboards I'm told. Surfing has the miraculous ability to heal, and I think it must have healed him. In my sixties now, I long for those years I spend surfing the California coast, and seeing this gem again made those long-forgotten memories come back like a returning faith. God bless you, Bruce Brown!
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