Just awesome. The whole movie. I was constantly being blown away by the history, culture, and the balls on these surfers. I've been skateboarding my whole life although living in Michigan I haven't had any exposure to surfing. I feel like I've discovered a whole new world after watching this. This is where it all stems from. Stacy Peralta does a very good job in leading the narrative. Starting with the earliest traces of surfing and moving through history with the first riders to make it into a lifestyle like Greg Noll. Then today with pioneers like Laird Hamilton. It also shows the level at which these surfers perform. I've always seen pictures of people surfing big waves, but it never clicked how dangerous these waves actually are. I gained a lot of respect for these individuals and surfing.
Since watching this I've already taken two trips to go learn to surf. I have more planned for the future. I guess that means the movie did a good job :)
Since watching this I've already taken two trips to go learn to surf. I have more planned for the future. I guess that means the movie did a good job :)